Fes: The Spiritual Heart of Morocco

Fes is Morocco's spiritual and intellectual capital, a living museum of medieval Islamic civilization that has preserved its character for over a thousand years. Home to the world's oldest continuously functioning university and one of the largest car-free urban zones on Earth, Fes offers an unparalleled journey back in time while remaining a vibrant, living city.

Overview

Founded in 789 AD by Idris I and expanded by his son Idris II, Fes quickly became one of the most important cities in the Islamic world. The city served as Morocco's capital for centuries and remains the country's cultural and spiritual center. Its medina, Fes el-Bali, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and represents one of the most complete and authentic examples of a medieval Arab-Islamic city anywhere in the world.

Unlike Marrakech, which has embraced tourism with open arms, Fes maintains an air of mystery and authenticity. The medina's 9,400 narrow lanes and alleyways can be overwhelming, but this labyrinthine complexity is precisely what makes Fes so special. Here, you'll find craftspeople practicing the same trades their ancestors did centuries ago, using techniques passed down through generations.

Top Attractions

Medina of Fes (Fes el-Bali)

The medina is the heart and soul of Fes. As the world's largest car-free urban area, it's home to over 150,000 residents who live and work in this ancient maze. The medina contains over 9,400 alleyways, some so narrow that only a donkey can pass through. Getting lost is almost inevitable on your first visit, but that's part of the experience.

The medina is divided into distinct neighborhoods, each with its own character. You'll find the tanners' quarter with its famous leather workshops, the metalworkers' area with its rhythmic hammering, the carpet sellers' streets draped with colorful rugs, and the spice markets fragrant with cumin, saffron, and ras el hanout.

Al Quaraouiyine University and Mosque

Founded in 859 AD by Fatima al-Fihri, a woman from a wealthy merchant family, Al Quaraouiyine is recognized by UNESCO and the Guinness World Records as the oldest continuously operating educational institution in the world. The university's library contains priceless manuscripts dating back to the 9th century, including original works by Ibn Rushd (Averroes) and other Islamic scholars.

While non-Muslims cannot enter the mosque, you can glimpse its stunning interior through the ornate doorways. The courtyard features beautiful zellij tilework, carved stucco, and cedar wood decorations that exemplify Moroccan architectural artistry.

Chouara Tannery

The most famous of Fes's three tanneries, Chouara has been operating since the 11th century. From the leather shops overlooking the tannery, you can watch workers processing hides in the same way their ancestors did a thousand years ago. The sight of workers in the multicolored vats of dye is iconic, though the smell can be overpowering. Leather shop owners often offer sprigs of mint to hold under your nose.

The best time to visit is in the morning when the tannery is most active and the light is optimal for photography. The tannery produces high-quality leather goods including bags, jackets, and the famous Moroccan babouche slippers.

Bou Inania Madrasa

This 14th-century theological college is one of the few religious buildings in Morocco open to non-Muslims. Built by the Marinid Sultan Bou Inan between 1351 and 1356, it's considered a masterpiece of Marinid architecture. The intricate carved stucco, zellij tilework, and cedar wood carvings are breathtaking. The madrasa also contains Morocco's only water clock, a remarkable 14th-century invention.

Royal Palace (Dar el-Makhzen)

Though the palace itself is closed to visitors, the famous golden doors are one of Fes's most photographed landmarks. The seven massive brass doors, decorated with intricate geometric patterns, symbolize the seven days of the week and the importance of the number seven in Islamic tradition. The doors date from the 1960s but were crafted using traditional techniques.

Mellah (Jewish Quarter)

Fes was once home to a thriving Jewish community, and the Mellah preserves much of this heritage. Visit the 17th-century Ibn Danan Synagogue, one of the oldest in Morocco, and the Jewish cemetery with its white-washed tombs. Though most Jews left Morocco in the mid-20th century, their architectural and cultural legacy remains an important part of Fes's identity.

Merenid Tombs

Perched on a hill north of the medina, these ruined 14th-century tombs offer the best panoramic views of Fes. Come at sunset when the medina glows golden in the fading light and the call to prayer echoes across the city. The tombs themselves are mostly ruins, but the location and views make this a must-visit spot.

Food & Restaurants

Fes is considered the culinary capital of Morocco, with a refined cuisine that reflects the city's sophisticated heritage. The local specialty is pastilla (or bastilla), a sweet and savory pie traditionally made with pigeon, though chicken is now more common. Layers of paper-thin warqa pastry enclose spiced meat, eggs, and almonds, all dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon.

Other Fassi specialties include:

• Mrouzia: A celebratory lamb tagine with honey, raisins, and ras el hanout
• Harira: The hearty soup that breaks the Ramadan fast
• Rfissa: Shredded msemen bread with chicken and lentils
• Briouat: Crispy pastry triangles filled with meat or cheese

For an authentic experience, book a meal at a traditional riad restaurant or take a cooking class that includes a market tour. The rooftop restaurants around Rcif Square offer excellent food with medina views.

Best Areas to Stay

Inside the Medina

Staying in a traditional riad within the medina offers the most immersive experience. These restored courtyard houses provide an oasis of calm amid the chaotic streets. Expect ornate tilework, fountains, and rooftop terraces with medina views. The downside is that you'll need to navigate the maze on foot, often with luggage.

Fes el-Jdid (New Fes)

Built in the 13th century, this "new" part of Fes offers easier access while still being close to the medina. It's home to the Royal Palace and the Mellah.

Ville Nouvelle (New Town)

The French-built modern district offers conventional hotels, restaurants, and easier transportation. It lacks the atmosphere of the old city but provides a break from the medina's intensity.

Prices & Budget

• Budget accommodation: $20-40/night (basic riads and hostels)
• Mid-range riads: $60-150/night (restored riads with amenities)
• Luxury riads and hotels: $200-500+/night (high-end historic properties)
• Street food meal: $2-5
• Restaurant meal: $10-25
• Fine dining: $40-80
• Official guide (half-day): $25-40
• Cooking class: $40-80

Getting Around

The medina is entirely pedestrian, so walking is your only option within its walls. The streets are too narrow for cars, and even motorcycles are rare. Donkeys and handcarts are the traditional modes of transport for goods.

Hiring an official guide for your first day is highly recommended. The medina's 9,400 alleys are genuinely confusing, and a guide will help you find the major sights while sharing the city's rich history. Look for guides with official badges, or ask your riad to arrange one.

For travel between the medina and Ville Nouvelle, petit taxis (small red taxis) are affordable and plentiful. Always agree on the fare before starting, or insist the driver uses the meter.

Mini Itinerary (3 Days)

Day 1: Medina Immersion

Start with an official guide to orient yourself. Visit Bou Inania Madrasa, Al Quaraouiyine University (exterior), and the Chouara Tannery. Explore the souks for spices, leather, and ceramics. End with sunset views from the Merenid Tombs.

Day 2: Deeper Exploration

Visit the Mellah and Ibn Danan Synagogue. Explore the less-touristed areas of the medina. Take a traditional cooking class. Enjoy a hammam experience at a traditional bathhouse.

Day 3: Day Trip or Relaxation

Take a half-day trip to Volubilis (Roman ruins) and Meknes, or explore the potters' quarter in Fes el-Jdid. Spend the afternoon shopping and enjoying a farewell dinner on a riad rooftop.

Day Trips from Fes

• Volubilis: Morocco's best Roman ruins, 30km away
• Meknes: Often overlooked imperial city with impressive monuments
• Ifrane: The "Switzerland of Morocco" in the Middle Atlas
• Moulay Idriss Zerhoun: Holy pilgrimage town near Volubilis
• Middle Atlas Cedar Forests: Home to Barbary macaques

FAQs

Q: Is the medina overwhelming? A: It can be, especially on your first visit. The narrow lanes, crowds, and persistent touts can be stressful. Hire a guide for your first day, stay in a central riad so you can retreat when needed, and embrace the chaos as part of the experience.

Q: How do I avoid getting lost? A: You will get lost, and that's okay. Major landmarks like mosques and gates help with orientation. Ask shopkeepers for directions (they're used to it), or download an offline map app. Staying in a central riad makes it easier to find your way home.

Q: Are there safety concerns? A: Fes is generally very safe. The main annoyances are aggressive touts and "helpful" strangers who expect payment for directions. Politely decline assistance you don't need, agree on guide prices upfront, and keep valuables secure in crowded areas.

Q: What's the best time to visit? A: Spring (March-May) and fall (September-November) offer ideal weather. Summer is very hot (40°C+), and winter can be cold and rainy. Ramadan affects opening hours but offers unique cultural experiences.

Q: Do I need to dress conservatively? A: Yes. Fes is more conservative than Marrakech. Women should cover shoulders and knees, and modest dress shows respect for local customs. Men should avoid shorts in the medina.

Q: Is Fes better than Marrakech? A: They offer different experiences. Fes is more authentic, less touristy, and historically significant. Marrakech is more accessible, has more nightlife, and is easier to navigate. Many visitors prefer Fes for its genuine character and intellectual heritage.